Top Ten easiest ways to understand F stop

Photo Taken with a 55-200mm Nikon vr lens.


F Stop maybe the singular least understood term in photography. And when I have even talked to some accomplished photographers their eyes have glazed over at the mere mention of the term.

What makes F Stop hard to grasp to many is that the higher the F Stop the less light enters the lens.

Now, if that is not confusing enough the term F stop is loosely used as a measure in ISO and shutter speed.

1. The Video: To grasp all of this may seem daunting, but I hope by the time you reach the end of this post you will have a firm basic understanding. Lets start with this short video that will visually give you a quick jump start on the concept of F Stop.


2. A little more depth: Well, the video gives you a quick overview of what F Stop is. And you see how they are using F stops in the understanding of shutter speed and ISO.

To be more technically correct they should just be saying stops.

The official definition of F Stop is:

In optics, the f-number (sometimes called focal ratio, f-ratio, or relative aperture) of an optical system expresses the diameter of the entrance pupil in terms of the focal length of the lens; in simpler terms, the f-number is the focal length divided by the "effective" aperture diameter.

What this amounts to for the photographer is a number on the scale which tells how much light is allowed to come in through the lens.

This is controlled either by a ring on the lens or through camera settings. It really works like your eye. The iris will contract or get larger to expose the pupil to more light.

In a photographic lens these are like leaves that make the opening for light smaller or larger. Just remember the higher the F number the smaller the hole.

(Aperture also controls dof or depth of field which is entirely another concept which deserves a post of its own).

3. Lets check our understanding: We now know that F Stop is a number that shows how much light is let in the lens by an iris diaphragm getting larger or smaller. This is true F Stop.

Larger numbers mean a smaller opening, smaller numbers mean a larger opening. We also know that Stops are also used in relation with ISO and shutter speed.

Stops are in reality is just a short hand word so one photographer can tell another "I can get another stop out of this lens." Another photographer would understand this to mean this lens can use less light and still get a good shot.

4. All things work together: In most modern cameras the user will see on the camera dial at least these settings: A S .

For our purposes in this post, these are the only two settings we will discuss.

A means aperture setting. When the photographer uses this setting he is controlling the iris diaphragm of the lens, the camera with its on board computer controls shutter speed and tries to adjust for the best picture.

Aperture settings I have found useful in fine tuning the contrast of an image and controlling DOF (Depth of Field).

The lower the F Stop the narrower the dof.

Depth of field is the amount of distance between the nearest and farthest objects that appear in acceptably sharp focus.

S means shutter setting: The length of time the shutter is open the more light is let into the camera.

The camera computer controls everything else to get the best picture. Using the S setting you can try to eek out the fastest speed to capture action, or the slowest speed for pictures in low light.

A lens with a small number for a F Stop can use less available light to get a good picture. It is considered a faster lens for this reason.

By faster it means that you can shoot at a higher shutter speed and still get a good picture. And the camera will acquire focus quicker.

This is because most auto focus systems use points of contrast to auto focus on. If you are using a lens on the edge of its ability with available light: Contrast is harder for focus system to detect.

5. A general rule: The longer the lens the more available light is needed. The best long lenses have "Big Glass" and can be stepped down to a low F Stop. This is the ideal, but it is very expensive. It also requires a tripod (or a monopod) to keep that heavy glass steady.

6. Exceptions to the general rule: With both lens technology improvements, camera improvements and noise reduction software improvements: There are some lenses that can get great images even though they do not have that low F Stop number.

They offer a lower cost opportunity to get good images from lenses. And can be hand held with great results.

Digital cameras are also improving in handling higher ISOs. The ability of a camera to take good images at higher ISO's is arguable more important than mega pixels in camera selection.

I highly recommend the Nikon 55-200mm vr lens that I get consistently great shots and it is one of the least expensive Nikon lenses. It is quick, works great in fairly low light conditions and it produces high quality images. The image at the start of this post was taken with this lens.




And, I have been impressed with the shots photographers are getting with the Sigma 150-500 HSM lens. Even at 500mm this lens produces shots with exceptional detail.



These two lenses are great examples of how technology met the challenge of producing superb lenses at a reasonable cost.

7. F Stop as a measurement in ISO and Shutter Speed: We saw in the video how F Stop can be communicated in terms of ISO.

This is more or less is a measurement factor and should be explained as gaining or losing a stop rather than a F Stop to be more technically correct. First lets understand what ISO is:

ISO equivalence on a digital camera is the ability to increase the sensitivity of the sensor to enable faster shutter speeds and/or better performance in low light.

One Stop according to the video would be increasing the ISO from 100 to 200.

So you would gain one stop in this scenario. Since 200 ISO requires more sensor sensitivity you would be stopping down.

Likewise if you increase the time the shutter is open you would also be stopping down.

8. Other Factors: So by now you are getting things a little firmer in understanding the term stop in photography.

One stop is a measurement tool of a change in settings, and one stop equals twice as much light as the previous stop.

Another tool a photographer uses are neutral density filters that block the amount of light coming in the camera.

To get that silky texture of waterfalls many photographers prefer a slower shutter speed and the filter allows the photographer to accomplish this without blowing out the picture highlights. Other uses are controlling depth of field.

9. Buying lenses: Perhaps one of the best uses of the knowledge of F Stop is evaluating the lenses you buy. If a camera has an F Stop number in the low range. You know it will be a great performer.

10. Watch the Video again: Just to reinforce what you learned here, I highly recommend you watch the video again. I think you will understand with a greater depth of this somewhat hard concept to grasp.

Ten Top Tips for a Photographer's Wish List

Photo taken with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ5A 9.1MP Digital Camera


Being on top of your game in the photographic field not only requires top photo skills but keeping up with new developments. Here are some product tips and short review of what I have found interesting.

Some of these I own myself, others are on my wish list. And some, I thought might just be interesting, but I have no plans to purchase. Check my recommendations here for an honest opinion.

1. Eye-FI SDHC card

* Wi-Fi Security: Static WEP 40/104/128, WPA-PSK, WPA2-PSK Mac and PC Compatible
* Stores photos and videos like a standard memory card
* Wireless upload of photos and videos via Wi-Fi to your PC or sharing, printing, social networking or blogging web site, even when computer is off
* Upload photos and videos wirelessly from over 10,000 Wi-Fi hotspots across the nation.
* Automatically adds geographic location information (geotags) so you can easily find and organize your memories.

This is not on my list to buy. A neat idea but is it really necessary item for me or you?



2. Polaroid Pogo:

* Digital camera with integrated printer instantly delivers full-bleed borderless images that are dry to the touch
* Features automatic image quality optimization with water-resistant, tear-proof, smudge-proof and peel-off prints
* Prints 2 x 3-inch borderless color images in under a minute
* Print speed: 60 seconds per print, from snap to share

Wow, I thought this was interesting Polaroid is getting back to the instant picture concept again. I can't see the need for this camera for me. But there maybe some creative minds out there that see advantages I do not.




3. Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ5A 9.1MP Digital Camera

This is one very cool camera to carry in your pocket. I bought one before a trip to Yellowstone and I am impressed by its ability to have a long aspect ratio. As an added benefit the HD movies it can record are just superb. The picture above is an example of its ability. I use this camera on every camera shoot even if I have my DSLR with me. An indispensable pocket camera.



4. LensBaby Composer:

Yes, this is definitely on my wish list. I have seen what can be done with this lens and I want a lens baby to call my own.

This new lens from Lens Baby offers creative control for the experimental photographer. The ball and socket design and interchangeable lenses offer the ultimate in getting that sweet spot just were you want it.



5. Joby GP1-EGEN Gorillapod Flexible Tripod:

This tripod is definitely on my to buy list. I see uses for it when I do event photography and need a third hand.

Flexible tripod designed for digital cameras weighing up to 9.7 ounces (275 grams)
Fits into your purse, backpack, or jacket pocket
Innovative segmented leg design to ensure secure mounting
Standard universal 1/4-20 screw for attaching your camera to the tripod mount




6. Caselogic UP-2 Universal Pockets:

If you have had any experience with caselogic cases, you know their quality at a reasonable price. These pockets are great for small camera protection in your pocket. I own several and use them daily. One is connected to my key chain now.



7. Holga 120CFN Medium Format Fixed Focus Camera with Lens and Built-in Flash with Color Filter Wheel:

Not exactly an innovation, but a blast back into film cameras. This is one of the premier cult cameras with all the desired idiosyncrasies of the beatnik artistic photographer. Be sure to read extensively about lomo photography. And you too can become a debutant in off beat artistic photography.

This goes on and off my wish list as often as a coin turns up head or tails. A low priority, but may get one someday.



8. Lowerpro Sling bag:

Definitely on my to buy list. I have a camera bag that carries all my equipment and it is great to get everything in one spot: the car. Twenty pounds is a little much to lug around. A small light bag like this would be perfect to carry the essentials on a hike or event shoot.



9. Tamrac N-5055 Neoprene Shock Absorber Digital Camera Strap (Black):

I own this and love it. Do you ever get tired of the camera strap digging into you neck. This solves the issue and I love the two pockets on the strap that I store my memory cards. Now I always have my memory cards ready to change. A definite must have.



10. Wacom Intuos tablet:

You mouse is like a bar of soap on rough slate. This is like a precise instrument that can reach to the one pixel level. I have this love it and do not know how I did without it.

Top Ten Great Links For Photographers

1. Photocritic: This site by Haje, is one of the most informative sites for photographers on the Net. I have purposefully linked to an article about contrast. Contrast to me is one of the most important elements in presenting a photograph. Here Haje tells you how to adjust the contrast to really give your photo some bang. I would not stop here with reading. He covers a variety of photographic subjects and I am an avid reader.

2. Srobist: There is one over riding rule about photograph and it is all about light. I try to work with the light around me from the sun, ambient light and finding the best perspective found in natural light. The strobist takes you into the world of strobe lighting. With many how to's and examples of results all photographers can learn from the Strobist's fine tutorials.

3. Photopreneur: This all around site tackles many quandaries for photographers. Most of the articles are about monetizing your photographs. I always appreciate the advice I find on this excellent site. The helpful hints I find here are priceless.

4. Digital Shot: This blog has a variety of contributors that offer all kinds of information on photography and processing. You will find lots of information about free photo editing programs for those who constantly try to reach the creative edge.

5. fotohacker: A variety of photographic advice and yes hacks. Learn what others do to help make the picture taking easier, more professional and creative. Good read for camera geeks.

6. Photoshop User TV: I like this video presentation, because it gives you time to absorb the content on some very excellent tutorials. This show does have a lot of promotional content that mostly I am not interested in, but the tutorials are top of the line.

7. Make TV: Now, most of this site is just a distraction, but interesting so. It is like visiting the 12 dimension of all things visual. If you want to know the cutting edge, walk on this thin line of perception of things to come. Or are they really here? Am I behind the curve? In the mists of all this are some ideas you can really use.

8. Earth Bound Light: I picked earth bound light for its tips of the week. Be sure to hit the previous buttons so you can find the content that interests you. I like this because I am sometimes more illiterate about camera technical knowledge than I should be. Here are easy to read articles that will help you understand some of the technical aspects of the camera, lens and filters that you use.

9. TZPlanet: This eZine has interesting content. It is more of a variety magazine and offers some relaxing reads and links to beautiful pictures by excellent photographers.

10. Beyond the Obvious: Paul presents his thoughts on life and photography. What I like about this blog is he brings home the idea of being personable about his photography. I really like his stories behind the photograph that gives insight to the viewer about the shot. A lesson can be learned for all of us photographers. It is important to connect not only visually but with words.

Ten Top Cures For Photo Block

If you are not out photographing you are not refining your craft. I am amazed at the many used DSLRs out there with a very small number of shutter clicks. In a day I usually do more shots than some people put on their camera in two years. So if you are one of those who has a camera gathering dust, here are some suggestions.

1. Always take your camera with you. Having your camera handy will make you more apt to use it. And, you just might run across that 100,000 dollar shot.

2. Look at the clouds. In photography the sky is not the limit. When you find those beautiful cloudscapes look for a place to take a picture.

3. Go to Parks, Zoos, Events. I am always finding new places to shoot, and returning to places I have shot before. Not only will you have an enjoyable trip you may get some of those awe inspiring pictures.

4. Listen to the Birds. Now, this might seem crazy, but when I hear those birds sing I just have to get out with my camera and spot birds and take pictures.

5. Post a picture a day. No matter what photo sharing network you belong to make it a habit to post a picture every day. For every photo I post I take a hundred. I can take a hundred pictures in less than hour. If I am at an event it is not unusual for me to take 500 pictures in an hour. One of those is likely to inspire me to process the photo. Have a shutter and click it.

6. Take your camera to work. I know some may not be allowed to take pictures at work. But if you can do. And, on the way to from work and at lunch you might find some exciting photo opportunities.

7. Compose pictures in your head. No matter where you are or what you are doing think about how you would compose a shot. If you do not have a camera with you, compose away. And, remember always to have your camera with you.

8. Pick a theme for the day. I am a photo opportunist and shoot whatever I find. Sometimes however I go out in the day and think lets do some macros, or river shots. I use these as guides but this does not limit the subject matter that I might find interesting.

9. Take a ride out in the country. There is nothing like exploring new places. Take that road that you have never been down before. Do some serious exploring, and if you can get lost. I personally find new and interesting sights while lost.

10. Go out on bad weather days. Snow, rain, fog, all make great photo shots. Don't be a sunny day shooter. All days are prime days to take photos.

Top Ten Camera Every Day Tricks

Sometimes, we just think about photographing with a camera as a tool for nature,landscapes, family portraits and professional work. I thought I would share some other ways I use my camera to help myself out in life.

1. Car repairs: Or for that matter anything you take apart and put back together. I use the camera to pictures every step of the way when I take things apart. When you reassemble you have a guide and don't have to worry about which screw went where. I also use the camera to take to auto part dealers to show them the part I need especially if I do not know the name.

2. Reading the fine print: If you are getting old like me some of that small print is just hard to see. Take a picture of it and blow it up. I can't tell you how many microwave dinner directions I have read doing this when I have misplaced my glasses.

3. Finding that small object: Have you ever dropped a small screw and find it as difficult to find as a needle in a haystack? Use your camera to take pictures of the area that the item was lost sit down and blow up your photos searching is much easier this way.

4. Giving someone directions to your house: Send them an email with picture landmarks they can follow. This makes life easier for everyone.

5. Finding things in dark places: Use your camera as a third eye and utilize the flash. Under couches, and in hard places to look. It is much easier to use your camera than crouching down for a look see.

6. Telling someone how to fix the computer: You are at home talking to your friend, and they just can't get what you are trying to tell them what to do. Take a series of pictures and email them how.

7. Borrowing something from someone: Have you ever returned something and someone said it was damaged. Take some pictures of the item before you borrow or rent it, being able to show what condition the item was when you borrowed it can be your best defense.

8. Car accidents: If you unfortunately have a car accident. Be sure to take pictures. Not only might this prove your innocence it may also show that you did not do damage that could have happened later.

9. Your wallet: Take pictures of all the documents you keep in your wallet. If you ever lose your wallet you will know everything that you lost. And it could help you in canceling credit cards and replacing valuable information.

10. Documenting injuries: Sometimes bad things happen to good people. It can be important to document injuries that happened in accidents or other situations. Since injuries heal, it is good to have a photographic record.

Top Ten Photography Myths

1. The best times to photography is early morning and late evening.

False. Yes, these are exceptional times for photographing, but all daylight hours are good. It is a matter of planning of your shooting. Evenings and early mornings are great for landscape shots, but great shots can be made during other hours of the day. I usually take walks through the woods in mid day when the lighting is usually better because of the over head canopy blocks so much of the light. Later in the day and earlier lighting may be inadequate.

2. You should always shoot with the sun on the the side of your shot or behind you.

False. Sometimes shooting directly with the sun in front of you can make for some great shots. Silhouettes are best made this way. And sometimes you can catch the shimmering of light that causes a photograph to reach an ethereal quality.

3. Its best to shoot on cloudy or overcast days.

False. Any day is great for photography. It is always the ability of you to manage your shots with the light at hand. Cloudless blue skies with green landscape can make for very striking photographs. Wildlife photos with excellent detail can also be achieved on bright days. Light and shadows under trees can make for interesting compositions.

4. Its rainy or miserable outside and you think it is a bad day for photography.

False. Some of the best atmospheric shots can be made on days like this. Get your camera and go. And, just a thought; sometimes you might end up with very grainy photos and you might think of deleting them. Take a second look on your computer, some of these may turn out to be great shots after processing. The shot above was one someone would might delete because it was so grainy before processing.

5. I can't take great shots because I have a cheap camera.

False. Any camera can produce great shots. All cameras do have their particular limitations, but even with the cheapest point and cameras can produce some excellent photographs. Learn the limitations of your camera, or better yet learn the wonderful capabilities that each camera possesses. Some of my most published photos were taken with a cheap point and shoot. Even one that ended up in National Geographic.

6. Its important to have a collection of filters and polarizing lenses.

False. Many great photographs are taken without any filters at all. While polarizing filters and other filters may have their place, the first filter you should have is a UV filter to protect the lens itself. I personally like taking photographs through clear glass as much as possible.

7. My photograph is not good because a good photographer told me how bad it was.

False. While it is helpful to have have a critical appraisal of your photographs, always take criticism with a grain of salt. You decide if you like your photograph. Take criticism as a means of improvement. And, just a little secret when sometimes you do get some negativity, it can be a sign that your photograph may be really good. Some photos that I have negative comments on proved to be my most viewed photos. And without earnest criticism you will never improve.

8. I have a photographer that I admire I will never be able to take shots like him/her.

False. Be persistent and take lots of shots. Work hard on your composition, and post processing skills. Try to figure out how the photographer achieved his shots. Emulate his style and look carefully at the post processing. Sometimes the learning curve may be long, but you can reach the goal. And most importantly, it is up to you to develop your own style. Style is your fingerprint on the craft. By understanding others your own style will evolve.

9. My photographs look flat and uninteresting, I can't take a good photograph.

False. Sometimes simple adjustments to light and contrast can improve a photograph dramatically. As you develop more post processing skills, you will be able to tell what each photos needs. Sometimes the processing comes quick. Sometimes you may spend hours working on a single photograph. And remember, I make take a hundred pictures before I select one for processing. The biggest mistake I see other photographers making is that they will take one or a couple of photographs of one scene then leave. I tend to spend hours at one location finding the right nuance of light to make a photograph special.

10. I have already photographed that scene, I don't need to go back.

False. I find myself always returning to the scene of the crime. Above is one of my favorite places to photograph. I have photographed it in all seasons and in all manners of weather. I am always amazed that I can bring back something different. The photo above was taken in the middle of a rain storm. Just goes to show any time is great photography.

Ten Top Tips to Prevent Blurry Images.

There is nothing better than a tripod or monopod to help steady your camera. But if you are like me, the inconvenience of lugging them around and setting up have led to alternatives.

1. Most shots of mine are hand held. Practice your shutter pushes so you only flex the muscles in your finger pad to cause the shutter release.

2. Click the shutter when you are slowly exhaling. I did hold my breath but this works better.

3. In low light situations I find using the camera timer to actuate the shutter helps you to eliminate even the slightest movement.

4. If you are using a point and shoot and focusing through the LCD pull the camera strap taunt and you will be able to steady your camera better.

5. In very low light situations sit down, cross your legs, put elbows on your knees.

6. With lens magnifications over 150mm use a lens with image stabilization. I find under 150mm image stabilization is overkill.

7. Use the fastest shutter speed you can in your lighting situation.

8. Open the aperture up to let in more light.

9. Use trees, rocks, banisters, poles as stabilization helpers. Bring a short piece of rope to connect to your camera strap and a stable object. With the strap around your neck and a connection to a stable object works nearly as well as a tripod.

10. Take lots of pictures. You can always delete ones that turned out blurry. And that is my most important advice. Sometimes, I will take a hundred pictures to get just the right one.